Nanga Parbat via Rupal Face — July 2020 Summit Report¶

The Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat — the highest rock face on Earth — is one of the most awe-inspiring sights in mountaineering. Our small team of four spent 50 days on this massive wall, establishing camps in precarious positions on narrow ledges. The summit day was a 16-hour push from Camp 4 at 7,400m. COVID-19 restrictions meant we had the mountain entirely to ourselves — a rare privilege on any 8,000er.

Trip Overview¶

Mountain: Nanga Parbat (8126m) Date: July 15, 2020 Duration: 50 days Party Size: 4 Outcome: Summit

Conditions¶

Weather: Mixed conditions throughout the expedition. The Rupal Face generated its own weather with afternoon clouds building daily. Summit window opened briefly on July 15 with partial clearing. Snow: Deep snow on the face, avalanche risk constant. The Mazeno Ridge was mostly bare rock. Temperature: -30°C to -8°C Wind: Variable, 20-40 km/h with fierce gusts in the Rupal couloirs

Difficulty Assessment¶

The Rupal Face is the highest mountain face on Earth at 4,600m. The route requires sustained climbing on 50-60 degree ice and mixed terrain. The isolation of the Rupal side means rescue is essentially impossible above Camp 3.