Mount Hood 2-Day South Side Climb¶

Two-day South Side ascent of Oregon's iconic glaciated stratovolcano — Palmer Snowfield camp, Hogsback snow ridge, and the Pearly Gates couloir to the fuming summit at 3,429m.

Overview¶

Mount Hood (3,429m) is Oregon's highest peak and the Pacific Northwest's most-climbed glaciated volcano. The South Side Route via Timberline Lodge is the standard ascent, gaining 1,800m of elevation in a single push or, preferably, over two days with a tent camp on the Palmer Snowfield. The route ascends the Hogsback snow ridge through the sulfurous Pearly Gates couloir to the summit. The route is serious: bergschrund crossings, rockfall from the Pearly Gates, and extreme weather demand glacier skills, crampons, and ice axe self-arrest technique. A free climber registration (required) is available at Timberline Lodge. The spring season (May–June) offers the most consolidated snow before summer rockfall increases significantly.

Day 1: Timberline Lodge to Palmer Snowfield Camp¶

Register at Timberline Lodge and take the Magic Mile and Palmer chairlifts to reduce the approach, or walk the snowfield from the lodge. Tent camp on the Palmer Snowfield above the top lift at 2,700m. Afternoon weather check, gear review, and early bedtime for the 1 AM summit push.

Day 2: Palmer Camp to Summit and Return to Timberline Lodge¶

1 AM departure from camp. Ascend the Hogsback to the bergschrund and through the Pearly Gates — a narrow couloir with rockfall from the crumbling summit headwall above. The summit plateau at 3,429m has active fumaroles. Descend before 10 AM to avoid afternoon rockfall and softening snow bridges.