Manaslu via Normal Route — September 2023 Summit Report¶

Manaslu in autumn is a spectacular experience — the mountain emerges from the monsoon clouds in late September, revealing a massive snow-covered pyramid. Our large team of 12 (with 6 climbing Sherpas) established four camps over five weeks. The key challenge was the avalanche-prone plateau above Camp 3, which we crossed in the early morning when temperatures kept the snowpack stable.

Trip Overview¶

Mountain: Manaslu (8163m) Date: September 28, 2023 Duration: 35 days Party Size: 12 Outcome: Summit

Conditions¶

Weather: Post-monsoon season with clearing skies by late September. Summit day dawned clear with light winds — perfect conditions for the final push. Snow: Fresh monsoon snow below Camp 2, consolidated above. Avalanche debris visible on the plateau. Temperature: -28°C to -10°C Wind: 10-20 km/h, occasionally gusting to 35 km/h

Difficulty Assessment¶

Manaslu has become the 'easy 8,000er' but this reputation understates the serious avalanche risk, especially on the plateau between Camp 3 and Camp 4. The summit pyramid requires careful navigation in poor visibility — several teams have become lost here.