Crevasse Rescue: How to Rescue a Fallen Climber from a Glacier Crevasse¶

When a rope-team/" class="glossary-link" title="Rope Team">rope team member breaks through a snow bridge into a crevasse, the remaining team members must execute a rescue quickly and efficiently. This guide covers the complete crevasse rescue sequence — initial arrest, building a snow anchor, setting up hauling systems (drop-loop, C-pulley, Z-pulley), and patient care considerations.

Introduction¶

When Seconds Count¶

Initial Response¶

Self-Arrest on the Glacier¶

Communicating with the Fallen Climber¶

Assessing the Situation¶

Building a Snow Anchor¶

Deadman Anchor (Buried Axe)¶

Picket Anchors¶

Equalizing Anchors¶

Transferring Load to the Anchor¶

Prussik and Autoblock¶

Load Transfer Sequence¶

Hauling Systems¶

Drop-Loop Technique (2-Person Team)¶

C-Pulley System¶

Z-Pulley System (3:1 Mechanical Advantage)¶

Choosing the Right System¶

Lip Management¶

Padding the Crevasse Lip¶

Preventing Rope Cut-In¶

Patient Care¶

Hypothermia Risk¶

Injury Assessment¶

Practice and Preparedness¶

Rescue Drills¶

Gear Checklist for Crevasse Rescue¶