Cotopaxi 2-Day Normal Route Expedition¶

A classic 2-day overnight-to-summit climb of one of the world's highest active volcanoes via the north face ice route from the José Rivas Refuge.

Overview¶

Cotopaxi (5,897m) is one of the world's highest active volcanoes and the most climbed high peak in Ecuador. The Normal Route ascends the north face from the refuge parking lot (4,500m) to the crater rim via snow and ice slopes at 40-50 degrees. This 2-day expedition drives to the José Rivas Refuge at 4,864m for an afternoon rest, then makes a midnight summit push to arrive at the crater rim at dawn. A licensed ASEGUIM guide is legally required in the national park.

Day 1: Parking Lot to José Rivas Refuge¶

Drive to the national park parking lot and walk the short but steep trail to the José Rivas Refuge. Spend the afternoon acclimatizing, eating an early dinner, and sleeping from 6 PM before the midnight summit call.

Day 2: Refuge to Crater Rim Summit and Return¶

Midnight departure on crampons up the glacier through crevasse fields and steep ice walls to reach the active crater rim at 5,897m just after dawn. Sulfurous fumaroles vent from the crater. Descend to the parking lot and transfer back to Quito.