Mount Shasta via Avalanche Gulch — June 2020 Summit Report¶

Shasta stands alone — a massive volcanic cone visible for 100 miles in every direction. The Avalanche Gulch route is a test of endurance: 2,300m of gain with no technical reprieve. We camped at Helen Lake (3,050m) and pushed for the summit at 3 AM. The views from the top — Lassen to the south, the Trinity Alps to the west — are among the most expansive in the Cascades.

Trip Overview¶

Mountain: Mount Shasta (4322m) Date: June 07, 2020 Duration: 2 days Party Size: 4 Outcome: Summit

Conditions¶

Weather: High pressure system brought clear, warm conditions. Snowmelt was advanced for early June, with the Red Banks nearly free of snow. Snow: Softening spring snow, good for climbing until late morning. Sun cups forming. Temperature: -5°C to 12°C Wind: Calm overnight, building to 15-20 km/h by afternoon

Difficulty Assessment¶

Avalanche Gulch is a direct, relentless climb gaining 2,300m from Bunny Flat. The Red Banks rock band at 3,900m requires navigation through loose volcanic rock. Altitude hits harder than expected because the climb starts at relatively low elevation.