Aconcagua via False Polish Traverse — January 2022 Summit Report¶

Aconcagua by the False Polish Traverse is the thinking mountaineer's route on the Western Hemisphere's highest peak. The Vacas Valley approach through the Argentine steppe, past the massive East Face, joins the Normal Route at Camp 2. Our 16-day expedition benefited from this approach — better acclimatization and far fewer people. The Canaleta was every bit as miserable as advertised: 400m of knee-deep loose scree at 6,500m+. But the summit panorama across the Andes was the reward.

Trip Overview¶

Mountain: Aconcagua (6961m) Date: January 28, 2022 Duration: 16 days Party Size: 3 Outcome: Summit

Conditions¶

Weather: The viento blanco ('white wind') was a constant threat but never materialized during our summit window. Cold and dry. Snow: Mostly scree and rock — some neve patches above 6,500m. Crampons for the Canaleta. Temperature: -25°C to 0°C Wind: Moderate 20-30 km/h, tolerable on summit day

Difficulty Assessment¶

The False Polish Traverse combines the scenic Vacas Valley approach with the Normal Route summit. It avoids the congested Horcones Valley while offering better acclimatization. The Canaleta — the final loose scree gully — is the most hated 400m in mountaineering.