Lhotse via Normal Route — May 2022 Summit Report¶

Lhotse shares Everest Base Camp and the first three camps, diverging only at Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face. The final push through the steep couloir to the narrow summit ridge is the defining challenge. Our team summited on May 12 with clear views of Everest's South Col just across the valley — a surreal perspective from the world's fourth-highest point.

Trip Overview¶

Mountain: Lhotse (8516m) Date: May 12, 2022 Duration: 38 days Party Size: 6 Outcome: Summit

Conditions¶

Weather: Shared the weather window with Everest teams. Clear skies on summit day with moderate wind. The Lhotse Face was in excellent condition with well-established fixed lines. Snow: Hard ice on the Lhotse Face, mixed rock and ice above Camp 4. Crampon-only terrain. Temperature: -30°C to -15°C Wind: 20-30 km/h, gusting to 40 km/h at the couloir exit

Difficulty Assessment¶

The Lhotse Couloir above 8,300m is the crux — a 50-degree ice chute requiring precise crampon technique. The shared route with Everest creates congestion on the Lhotse Face. Route-finding above the Yellow Band requires experience.