Makalu via Normal Route — May 2024 Summit Report
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Kondisi
- Cuaca
- Persistent high winds throughout May. Multiple summit attempts aborted. The jet stream remained positioned over Makalu for the entire season, with only brief windows that closed before teams could capitalize.
- Salju
- Heavy accumulation from late-season storms, avalanche risk on upper slopes.
- Suhu
- -38°C to -18°C
- Angin
- Sustained 60+ km/h at 8,000m, gusting to 90 km/h
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Makalu via Normal Route — May 2024 Summit Report¶
A humbling season on the world's fifth-highest peak. Despite 42 days of acclimatization and three summit attempts, sustained winds above 60 km/h made the exposed summit pyramid too dangerous. We turned back at 8,100m — a hard decision but the right one. The mountain will always be there; fingers and toes are harder to replace.
Trip Overview¶
Mountain: Makalu (8485m) Date: May 22, 2024 Duration: 42 days Party Size: 5 Outcome: Turned Back
Conditions¶
Weather: Persistent high winds throughout May. Multiple summit attempts aborted. The jet stream remained positioned over Makalu for the entire season, with only brief windows that closed before teams could capitalize. Snow: Heavy accumulation from late-season storms, avalanche risk on upper slopes. Temperature: -38°C to -18°C Wind: Sustained 60+ km/h at 8,000m, gusting to 90 km/h
Difficulty Assessment¶
The 2024 season was one of the worst in recent memory for Makalu. Persistent high winds made the exposed summit pyramid impassable. Our team reached 8,100m before retreating due to deteriorating conditions and frostbite risk.