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Matterhorn via Hornli Ridge — August 2022 Summit Report

Summit

Matterhorn (4478m)

Matterhorn — 4,478m — Switzerland — watercolor illustration
Datum
Aug 5, 2022
Gruppengröße
2
Dauer
2 Tage
Schwierigkeit
4/5

Bedingungen

Wetter
Stable high pressure — -4°C at summit, excellent dry rock conditions, minimal ice on the fixed ropes. Dawn light on the North Face was extraordinary. Perfect August window.
Schnee
Minimal snow — warm summer, fixed rope sections ice-free
Temperatur
-4°C to 14°C
Wind
Light winds, calm on summit and descent

Höhenprofil

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Elevation profile of Matterhorn (4478m)

Matterhorn via Hornli Ridge — August 2022 Summit Report

The Matterhorn via Hornli Ridge: the most iconic silhouette in the Alps, earned on two days from Zermatt. Early August brings dry rock and early starts at 4 AM from the Hornli Hut. The upper fixed ropes give false confidence — routefinding on the descent is where accidents happen. The summit knife-edge above Zermatt, with Italy on one side and Switzerland on the other, delivers everything the Matterhorn promises and a full understanding of why its history is written in accidents as much as ascents.

Trip Overview

Mountain: Matterhorn (4478m) Date: August 05, 2022 Duration: 2 days Party Size: 2 Outcome: Summit

Conditions

Weather: Stable high pressure — -4°C at summit, excellent dry rock conditions, minimal ice on the fixed ropes. Dawn light on the North Face was extraordinary. Perfect August window. Snow: Minimal snow — warm summer, fixed rope sections ice-free Temperature: -4°C to 14°C Wind: Light winds, calm on summit and descent

Difficulty Assessment

The Hornli Ridge is the Normal Route but demands solid alpine rock skills and comfort on exposed terrain. Fixed ropes on the upper sections help route-finding. Traffic can create dangerous bottlenecks — early start is non-negotiable. Descent is technically harder than ascent.