Mt. Rainier via Disappointment Cleaver — June 2023 Summit Report¶

Three days from Paradise to Columbia Crest via Rainier's most-climbed route. The snowfield grind from Paradise to Camp Muir builds legs for what follows. Roping up at dawn for the Ingraham Glacier puts the team into proper alpinism. The Disappointment Cleaver crux and the final summit crater arrive after 6,000 feet of gain. The views of Adams, Hood, and St. Helens from 14,411 feet justify every step. Glissading down on the descent is the perfect reward.

Trip Overview¶

Mountain: Mount Rainier (4392m) Date: June 17, 2023 Duration: 3 days Party Size: 4 Outcome: Summit

Conditions¶

Weather: Classic Pacific Northwest — overcast at Paradise, broke through at 10,000 ft. Summit: -12°C, 30 km/h wind, stunning views of Adams, Hood, and St. Helens across the Cascade Range. Snow: Consolidated June snowpack, Ingraham Glacier crevasses covered, good crampon purchase throughout Temperature: -12°C to 8°C Wind: 30 km/h on summit, calmer on Disappointment Cleaver

Difficulty Assessment¶

Mid-June offers the best snow conditions for the DC route. The Disappointment Cleaver section requires careful footwork on mixed rock and snow. Crevasses are bridged but roping up through the Ingraham Glacier is non-negotiable. Self-arrest skills must be practised before the attempt.