Mont Blanc du Tacul East Face — July 2024 Summit Report¶

The east face of Mont Blanc du Tacul is one of the most accessible alpine ice climbs in the Alps. From the Aiguille du Midi, we descended the arete to the Col du Midi and climbed the sweeping snow face in 3 hours. The views from the summit of the entire Mont Blanc range — from the Grandes Jorasses to the Aiguille Verte — are spectacular. A perfect single-day alpine objective.

Trip Overview¶

Mountain: Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248m) Date: July 08, 2024 Duration: 1 days Party Size: 2 Outcome: Summit

Conditions¶

Weather: Perfect summer alpinism day. Cold pre-dawn, warming through morning. The Aiguille du Midi cable car enabled an alpine-start approach. Snow: Good neve on the face, some bare ice sections. Bergschrund well-bridged. Temperature: -8°C to 5°C Wind: Light, 5-10 km/h

Difficulty Assessment¶

Mont Blanc du Tacul's east face is a popular ice route in the Mont Blanc massif. Accessible from the Aiguille du Midi cable car, it offers 45-degree neve slopes with a short steeper section. Serac fall risk from the Triangle du Tacul requires early timing.