Annapurna via North Face — April 2019 Summit Report¶

Annapurna I is the most dangerous of the fourteen 8,000-meter peaks, and the 2019 spring season reminded everyone why. Our team reached 7,500m on the north face before persistent avalanche danger forced a retreat. We witnessed two major slide events from Base Camp that swept through our planned route. The decision to descend was unanimous and unhesitating.

Trip Overview¶

Mountain: Annapurna (8091m) Date: April 16, 2019 Duration: 38 days Party Size: 6 Outcome: Turned Back

Conditions¶

Weather: Heavy snowfall throughout April made the north face extremely dangerous. Persistent avalanche cycles forced multiple retreats. The snow accumulation was double the seasonal average. Snow: Deep unconsolidated powder, daily avalanche activity. Slab avalanche risk extreme. Temperature: -25°C to -5°C Wind: Moderate 20-30 km/h but wind-loaded slopes were the main danger

Difficulty Assessment¶

Annapurna has the highest fatality-to-summit ratio of any 8,000er. The north face is a vast avalanche terrain trap with limited safe zones for camps. In 2019, conditions never stabilized enough for a safe summit attempt above 7,500m.