Mount Rainier 3-Day Disappointment Cleaver Expedition¶

The most-climbed glacier route in North America — a 3-day ascent of Mount Rainier via Camp Muir and the Ingraham Glacier Disappointment Cleaver.

Overview¶

The Disappointment Cleaver (DC) Route is the most climbed glacier route in North America, ascending Mount Rainier (4,392m) via the Ingraham Glacier and rocky Disappointment Cleaver buttress. This 3-day itinerary begins at Paradise (1,647m), overnights at Camp Muir (3,072m), and makes the summit push in the pre-dawn hours. Technical glacier travel with crevasse hazard requires crampons, ice axes, and rope teams. A Climbing Cost Recovery fee and camping reservation are mandatory.

Day 1: Paradise to Camp Muir¶

Depart Paradise visitor center and ascend the Muir Snowfield — a broad glacier bowl with no crevasse hazard — to the Camp Muir hut complex at 3,072m. Rope up, check crampons, and rest before the midnight summit push.

Day 2: Camp Muir to Summit and Return¶

Midnight departure on roped glacier with crampons. Traverse the Ingraham Glacier and climb the rocky Disappointment Cleaver buttress to the Columbia Crest crater rim at 4,392m. Return to Camp Muir before afternoon weather builds.

Day 3: Camp Muir to Paradise¶

Glissade or hike down the Muir Snowfield back to Paradise. The descent is rapid once off the technical terrain; register out at the ranger station to confirm safe return.