Huascarán 5-Day Normal Route Expedition¶

Five-day guided ascent of South America's second-highest peak via the Garganta Col, with progressive high camps for safe acclimatization.

Overview¶

Huascarán Norte (6,655m) and Sur (6,768m) together form the highest massif in the Tropics and the highest point in Peru. The standard 5-day itinerary ascends via the scenic Garganta Col between the two summits, camping progressively higher for acclimatization. A licensed guide is required by Huascarán National Park rules. The route involves glacier travel, crevasse navigation, and a steep final push to the Sur summit and is best attempted June–August when the dry season stabilizes snow bridges.

Day 1: Musho Village to Base Camp¶

Depart the village of Musho and hike up the quebrada to Base Camp at 4,300m, crossing pastoral Andean farmland and entering the Huascarán National Park. Rest the afternoon at Base Camp and review gear with your guide team.

Day 2: Base Camp to Camp 1¶

Cross the bergschrund and begin glacier travel roped up with your guide. Ascend moderate glacier slopes to Camp 1 at 5,200m, navigating several crevasse zones on the approach.

Day 3: Camp 1 to Garganta Col Camp 2¶

Ascend through the Garganta, the dramatic glacier col between Huascarán Norte and Sur. Set up Camp 2 at 5,900m in the sheltered col and spend the day acclimatizing with short walks.

Day 4: Summit Day — Garganta to Huascarán Sur and Return to Camp 1¶

Midnight start from the Garganta to tackle the steep upper slopes and bergschrund to the 6,768m Sur summit. Return to Camp 2 then continue down to Camp 1 for the night.

Day 5: Camp 1 to Musho Village¶

Strike camp and descend the glacier to Base Camp, de-rope below the bergschrund, and continue the long trail descent through the quebrada back to Musho village for a celebratory meal.