Grand Teton 3-Day Exum Ridge Expedition¶

Three-day technical rock ascent of the Grand Teton via the classic Exum Ridge — Grade IV 5.7 Teton granite, Lower Saddle overnight, and the Wall Street finishing traverse to 4,199m.

Overview¶

The Exum Ridge on Grand Teton (4,199m) is considered one of the finest rock climbs in North America — a sustained Grade IV, 5.7 rock route ascending the mountain's southeast skyline via the Wind Tunnel, Upper Exum Ridge, and Wall Street section. This 3-day itinerary uses the first day for the Garnet Canyon approach to the Lower Saddle (3,658m), day two for the full Exum Ridge summit, and day three for a restful descent. A backcountry camping permit and a climbing permit from Grand Teton National Park are both required. An Exum Mountain Guides licensed guide is strongly recommended given the sustained technical rock above 3,900m. The Exum Ridge offers a completely different character from the Owen-Spalding normal route and rewards parties with genuine alpine rock climbing on the Teton granite.

Day 1: Lupine Meadows to Lower Saddle via Garnet Canyon¶

From Lupine Meadows trailhead, hike the well-traveled Garnet Canyon trail through sage flats and moraine to the Lower Saddle between the Grand and Middle Teton. The Exum Mountain Guides semipermanent camp on the saddle has sleeping platforms. Afternoon rock skills review with the guide on the practice slabs above the saddle.

Day 2: Lower Saddle via Exum Ridge to Summit and Return¶

Predawn start from the Lower Saddle to the base of the Exum Ridge. The lower Exum pitch accesses the Wind Tunnel, followed by the classic crack systems of the Upper Exum at 5.6-5.7. Wall Street — a traversing ledge above vertical exposure — leads to the summit snowfield. The summit at 4,199m offers the full Teton Range panorama and views into Yellowstone. Rappel descents return the party to the Lower Saddle by afternoon.

Day 3: Lower Saddle to Lupine Meadows¶

Leisurely descent of Garnet Canyon back to Lupine Meadows on rested legs. The descent allows reflection on the Exum Ridge achievement — one of the finest technical routes in American mountaineering. Return to Jackson Hole for celebration.