Ama Dablam 18-Day Southwest Ridge Expedition¶

An 18-day technical expedition to the Himalayas' most aesthetically celebrated peak, climbing the classic Southwest Ridge to 6,812m.

Overview¶

Ama Dablam (6,812m) is widely considered the most beautiful technical peak in the Himalayas, its distinctive dablam (double pendant) seracs dominating the Khumbu skyline. The Southwest Ridge is the classic and only permitted route, involving technical rock and ice climbing to three high camps before the final summit ridge. The 18-day itinerary includes the Lukla approach trek, base camp acclimatization, two high-camp rotations, a summit-window push, and full descent. A Nepal Mountaineering Association climbing permit and licensed certified guide are required.

Day 1: Lukla to Namche Bazaar¶

Fly to Lukla's Tenzing-Hillary Airport and descend to the Dudh Kosi valley before the long climb to Namche Bazaar, the Sherpa capital of the Khumbu. Cross the famous Hillary Suspension Bridge en route.

Day 2: Namche Bazaar to Pangboche¶

Trek through the Sagarmatha National Park with increasing views of Ama Dablam's signature silhouette towering over the Imja Khola valley. Pangboche has one of the oldest monasteries in the Khumbu.

Day 3: Pangboche to Ama Dablam Base Camp¶

A steep trail leads up from Pangboche onto the moraine ridge to Ama Dablam Base Camp at 4,570m. Set up tents, meet the expedition team, and begin identifying the Southwest Ridge route through binoculars.

Day 4: Base Camp to Camp 1 — First Rotation¶

Technical climbing begins immediately above Base Camp on mixed rock and snow to Camp 1 at 5,700m on the Southwest Ridge. Fixed ropes protect the steeper sections.

Day 5: Camp 1 to Camp 2 — Second Rotation¶

Continue up the narrowing ridge on technical rock above Camp 1 to reach the Yellow Tower section and Camp 2 at 6,000m. This is the most technically demanding camp-to-camp section on the route.

Day 6: Summit Day — Camp 2 to Summit and Return to Camp 1¶

Pre-dawn departure from Camp 2, negotiating the upper ridge and dablam serac to reach the 6,812m summit with panoramic views of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu. Descend to Camp 1 the same day to clear the upper mountain.

Day 7: Camp 1 to Lukla via Base Camp and Pangboche¶

Descend from Camp 1 to Base Camp, strike the expedition camp, and trek the long trail back through Pangboche and Namche to Lukla for the return flight to Kathmandu.