Mount Everest via North Col (Tibet) — May 2024 Summit Report
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Conditions
- Weather
- The 2024 spring window opened on May 18 with a 3-day clearance. Summit day had light winds and clear skies — a textbook window.
- Snow
- Hard-packed wind crust on the Northeast Ridge. Old fixed ropes mixed with new.
- Temperature
- -40°C to -15°C
- Wind
- Summit day: 15-20 km/h — exceptional for Everest
Elevation Profile
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Mount Everest via North Col (Tibet) — May 2024 Summit Report¶
Everest from the north — the route of Mallory and Irvine. The 52-day expedition from Rongbuk Advanced Base Camp to the summit via the Northeast Ridge is a marathon of endurance. The Second Step, with its aluminum ladder bolted to the cliff, is the iconic moment. Our team of 10 placed 7 on the summit during the May 20 window. The northern approach feels more austere and remote than Nepal — the Tibetan Plateau stretches endlessly to the north.
Trip Overview¶
Mountain: Mount Everest (8849m) Date: May 20, 2024 Duration: 52 days Party Size: 10 Outcome: Summit
Conditions¶
Weather: The 2024 spring window opened on May 18 with a 3-day clearance. Summit day had light winds and clear skies — a textbook window. Snow: Hard-packed wind crust on the Northeast Ridge. Old fixed ropes mixed with new. Temperature: -40°C to -15°C Wind: Summit day: 15-20 km/h — exceptional for Everest
Difficulty Assessment¶
The North Ridge from Tibet is less crowded than the Nepal side but has a longer, more exposed summit ridge. The Three Steps — especially the Second Step's ladder — are the crux. Supplemental oxygen is standard. The Chinese permit process adds complexity.