Cerro Torre via Ragni Route — January 2020 Summit Report¶

Cerro Torre — Patagonia's screaming needle of granite and ice. Our 12-day siege produced only one usable weather window, during which we reached the headwall at 2,900m before the wind returned with fury. The mountain defeated us, as it defeats most who try. We spent more time waiting in El Chaltén than climbing. Patagonia teaches patience and humility in equal measure.

Trip Overview¶

Mountain: Cerro Torre (3128m) Date: January 15, 2020 Duration: 12 days Party Size: 2 Outcome: Turned Back

Conditions¶

Weather: Patagonian weather at its worst — only 2 clear days in 12. Horizontal snow, persistent wind. One brief window on day 8 allowed progress to the headwall before retreating. Snow: Fresh snow and rime ice on all faces. Mushroom ice on the summit tower heavily loaded. Temperature: -12°C to 3°C Wind: Constant 60-100 km/h, brief calm periods of 2-3 hours only

Difficulty Assessment¶

Cerro Torre is arguably the most difficult mountain in the world relative to its height. The combination of extreme Patagonian weather, vertical granite, and the notorious summit mushroom makes any ascent a major achievement. Most expeditions fail.