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Annapurna via North Face — April 2019 Summit Report

Turned Back

Annapurna (8091m)

Annapurna — 8,091m — Nepal — watercolor illustration
Date
Apr 16, 2019
Party Size
6
Duration
38 days
Difficulty
5/5

Conditions

Weather
Heavy snowfall throughout April made the north face extremely dangerous. Persistent avalanche cycles forced multiple retreats. The snow accumulation was double the seasonal average.
Snow
Deep unconsolidated powder, daily avalanche activity. Slab avalanche risk extreme.
Temperature
-25°C to -5°C
Wind
Moderate 20-30 km/h but wind-loaded slopes were the main danger

Elevation Profile

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Elevation profile of Annapurna (8091m)

Annapurna via North Face — April 2019 Summit Report

Annapurna I is the most dangerous of the fourteen 8,000-meter peaks, and the 2019 spring season reminded everyone why. Our team reached 7,500m on the north face before persistent avalanche danger forced a retreat. We witnessed two major slide events from Base Camp that swept through our planned route. The decision to descend was unanimous and unhesitating.

Trip Overview

Mountain: Annapurna (8091m) Date: April 16, 2019 Duration: 38 days Party Size: 6 Outcome: Turned Back

Conditions

Weather: Heavy snowfall throughout April made the north face extremely dangerous. Persistent avalanche cycles forced multiple retreats. The snow accumulation was double the seasonal average. Snow: Deep unconsolidated powder, daily avalanche activity. Slab avalanche risk extreme. Temperature: -25°C to -5°C Wind: Moderate 20-30 km/h but wind-loaded slopes were the main danger

Difficulty Assessment

Annapurna has the highest fatality-to-summit ratio of any 8,000er. The north face is a vast avalanche terrain trap with limited safe zones for camps. In 2019, conditions never stabilized enough for a safe summit attempt above 7,500m.