Annapurna 1950: The First 8,000-Meter Peak Ever Climbed¶

On June 3, 1950, Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal stood on the summit of Annapurna — the first humans to climb an 8,000-meter peak. But the descent nearly killed them both. Herzog lost all his fingers and toes to frostbite, and the expedition became a cautionary tale about the cost of ambition. This is mountaineering's original epic.

Introduction¶

The Race for 8,000 Meters¶

The French Expedition of 1950¶

Team Selection and National Pride¶

The Original Target — Dhaulagiri¶

Switching to Annapurna¶

Finding the Route¶

Uncharted Territory¶

The North Face Approach¶

Summit Day¶

Herzog and Lachenal's Ascent¶

The Decision at 8,000 Meters¶

Reaching the Summit¶

The Catastrophic Descent¶

Lost Gloves and Frostbite¶

The Avalanche¶

Emergency Medical Care in the Field¶

Aftermath and Legacy¶

Herzog's Book — Bestseller and Controversy¶

Lachenal's Alternative Account¶

Impact on Himalayan Mountaineering¶

Annapurna Today¶

The Deadliest 8,000er by Fatality Rate¶