Ojos del Salado 6-Day Normal Route Expedition¶

Six-day ascent of the world's highest active volcano via the normal Chilean route — Atacama approach, three altitude camps, the Tejos Hut, and a summit chimney crux to 6,893m.

Overview¶

Ojos del Salado (6,893m) on the Argentina-Chile border is the world's highest active volcano and the second-highest peak in the Western Hemisphere. The normal route approaches from the Chilean side through the Atacama Desert, requiring a 4WD vehicle for the high-altitude approach roads (up to 5,700m by jeep). Three camps at 5,200m, 5,700m, and the Tejos Hut at 6,000m allow proper acclimatization before the summit day. The technical crux is a short rock chimney (Grade II+) just below the summit at approximately 6,860m; above it, a final snow slope leads to the highest active volcanic crater in the world. Chilean DIFROL permits are required weeks in advance. The extreme altitude and the Atacama's arid winds make this a serious high-altitude objective rivaling Aconcagua in physical demand.

Day 1: Copiapó to Camp 1 via 4WD¶

Depart Copiapó in 4WD vehicles across the Atacama and up the DIFROL-controlled approach road to approximately 5,200m. The drive itself passes 5,000m — acclimatization during travel is critical. Set up Camp 1, hydrate aggressively, and monitor for altitude sickness. The Atacama landscape at this elevation is extraordinary — salt flats, volcanic peaks, and absolute silence.

Day 2: Acclimatization Day at Camp 1¶

Rest and acclimatization day at Camp 1. A short acclimatization hike to 5,500m and return is recommended. Eat, hydrate, and watch the Atacama color change from noon to dusk. Monitor oxygen saturation; abort if AMS symptoms worsen.

Day 3: Camp 1 to Camp 2¶

Drive or walk (conditions dependent) from Camp 1 to Camp 2 at 5,700m. The 4WD track often reaches within 100m. The summit cone of Ojos del Salado becomes fully visible. Wind can be extreme; guy all tent lines securely.

Day 4: Camp 2 to Tejos Hut¶

Move to the Tejos Hut at 6,000m — the highest-altitude hut in the Americas, accessible by 4WD to within 100m. Rest, eat, and hydrate aggressively. Altitude at 6,000m causes significant sleep disruption. Prepare every piece of summit gear the evening before.

Day 5: Tejos Hut to Summit and Return to Hut¶

5 AM departure across firm volcanic scree and snow slopes to the 6,860m rock chimney crux — a short but exposed Grade II+ move onto the summit cone. Above the chimney, a snow slope leads to the active summit crater at 6,893m: the world's highest volcanic vent. Return to Tejos Hut before afternoon winds intensify.

Day 6: Tejos Hut to Copiapó¶

4WD descent from the Tejos Hut through Camps 2 and 1 and across the Atacama back to Copiapó. The descent takes 3–4 hours by vehicle; altitude headaches typically resolve below 4,000m. Celebratory dinner in Copiapó.