Mount Everest via North Col (Tibet) — May 2024 Summit Report¶

Everest from the north — the route of Mallory and Irvine. The 52-day expedition from Rongbuk Advanced Base Camp to the summit via the Northeast Ridge is a marathon of endurance. The Second Step, with its aluminum ladder bolted to the cliff, is the iconic moment. Our team of 10 placed 7 on the summit during the May 20 window. The northern approach feels more austere and remote than Nepal — the Tibetan Plateau stretches endlessly to the north.

Trip Overview¶

Mountain: Mount Everest (8849m) Date: May 20, 2024 Duration: 52 days Party Size: 10 Outcome: Summit

Conditions¶

Weather: The 2024 spring window opened on May 18 with a 3-day clearance. Summit day had light winds and clear skies — a textbook window. Snow: Hard-packed wind crust on the Northeast Ridge. Old fixed ropes mixed with new. Temperature: -40°C to -15°C Wind: Summit day: 15-20 km/h — exceptional for Everest

Difficulty Assessment¶

The North Ridge from Tibet is less crowded than the Nepal side but has a longer, more exposed summit ridge. The Three Steps — especially the Second Step's ladder — are the crux. Supplemental oxygen is standard. The Chinese permit process adds complexity.