The Matterhorn Disaster: The Day Triumph Turned to Tragedy in 1865¶

On July 14, 1865, Edward Whymper led the first successful ascent of the Matterhorn — and on the descent, four of his seven-man team fell to their deaths. The tragedy made international headlines and sparked a debate about the morality of mountaineering that continues today. This is the story of the climb that defined the Alpinism">golden age of alpinism.

Introduction¶

The Matterhorn's Unclimbed Status¶

The Race for the Matterhorn¶

Edward Whymper's Obsession¶

Jean-Antoine Carrel — The Italian Rival¶

Years of Failed Attempts¶

July 14, 1865 — The First Ascent¶

The Hastily Assembled Team¶

The Ascent via Hörnli Ridge¶

Standing on the Summit¶

The Fatal Descent¶

The Broken Rope¶

Four Men Fall¶

The Survivors' Horror¶

Aftermath¶

The Inquest and Blame¶

Public Outcry — "Is Mountaineering Murder?"¶

Queen Victoria's Proposed Ban¶

The Matterhorn's Legacy¶

The End of the Golden Age¶

The Matterhorn Today¶

Lessons from the Disaster¶